Golden Dog to Hippy Magnet

So far on our trip, we’ve been cycling along a narrow band between the Pacific Ocean and the Great Dividing Range. This week geographical structures and a lack of roads have forced us to turn left; (inland).
Our first overnight stop was The Golden Dog Hotel, a basic ‘locals’ pub. We tried a little interaction but ended up hiding in our room for the evening. Still, it was a break from the unrelenting hills we enjoyed over the two days and allowed us to sample the world famous ‘Bobcat’, a pie which contains all the ingredients of all other pies.

Next stop was the city of Grafton and after a night in a tasteful 1970s Caravan (mmm… brown and orange) we headed back east towards the coast, cycling over 70km in one day on blissfully flat roads. We spent the night at Woody Head a tiny camping ground in a national park. We cooked our dinner over a campfire and watched the sun set behind the hills on the opposite side of the bay.

From inland mountains to Australia’s most easterly point - a couple of days travel through sugar cane fields and rainforest, we find ourselves in Byrons Bay. Honestly, we’ve been looking forward to arriving here more than Brisbane. A Hippy haven and must see for any respectable backpacker (what’s that?). It was populated by surfers in the 60s, Hippies in the 70s and backpackers ever since. Despite that it’s not been over commercialised and the theme is still incense, tie-dye and health food shops. We discovered that you have to be very lucky to find good accommodation, Hostels charge what they like and apartments are at almost Sydney prices. That said, if you’re as lucky as us; you may accidentally come across a modern luxury apartment situated between the city centre and the beach, with pool and enough room for all three of us and still cheaper than the caravan park. Yay.

sCoff On

We adopted a South African cycle tourer this week called Dyllan. The past week has been excellent, not only has it been nice to have a third voice in the choir, but it makes staying in a Cabin (and sleeping in a bed) much more affordable, and even economically sound. His enthusiasm (he only started in Sydney) as even rubbed off on us and we’ve cycled over 200km this week.

It’s also been a good week on the wildlife front, everything from Roos and wallabies to Camels and weird insects have been out in force. We’ve even seen quite a few dolphins just messing about with no agenda.

We’re now in Coffs Harbour, another milestone in our journey and the biggest town we’ll see until Brisbane. A Mecca for adrenalin junkies, and water sports, but most importantly Home of the Big Banana! – Surprisingly entry is Free.

We also squeezed in another kayaking trip and explored the Botanical gardens from the waters edge. Today, Ann’s riding the surf with World Professional Surfer Lee Winkler who promises to ‘get you addicted to surfing’- lets hope that’s not the case.

the emerald gem

Port Macquarie; Australia’s 3rd oldest city. It has the best year round weather in the world - official. Worth a couple of days of our time then.
The beaches are the usual pristine white, perfect surf waves roll in 24/7 and too many high-rise buildings do not spoil the views.
We spent a day exploring the town on foot and sampling the wide range of fresh local cuisine.
After a little negotiation we were aboard a two-man sea kayak paddling down the Hastings River, which splits the city in two. To our surprise only a few minutes up stream (and after beaching ourselves in a shallow under a bridge), we found ourselves surround by mangroves, inhabited by tens of thousands of Fruit Bats and Flying Foxes! The squawking and shrieking was intense. Alas no pictures as yet, we bought a disposable Waterproof camera for just such occasions.
We then headed out to sea, and tried our hand at Surfing- Kayak style, it’s easier in the sense you don’t stand up plus you can start further out to sea, so gliding along the crest of a wave is a moments adrenaline rush rather than the split second we enjoy while surfing.

So, what do the people of Port Macquarie do in this climatic utopia? They paint rocks!… yea.

Surf Watch

This is a very cool site, called SURF WATCH They have real time videos of the Surf on various beaches around the country.
This Link is to the camera in Port Macquarie, where we are at the moment.

sugar plum

We do realise how lucky we are and that this adventure of ours is a once in a life time opportunity, so we’re making the most of it…. We were about the leave Nelson’s Bay but having caught the tale end of a TV commercial the previous day we checked into a Motel with Cable TV. We stocked up on snacks, beer and sweets then settled down to watch the Star Trek Next Generation: 22-hour Marathon! It was worth every penny, but needless to say when we did finally emerge from the hotel we weren’t much good for anything so the cycling had to wait till the next day.

A quick ferry through dolphin infested waters and we were heading through an area called ‘Mungo Brush’ - beautiful crystal lakes, flanked by mountains inland and separated from the sea by rolling sand dunes. It would have been one of the most pleasant rides of the tour; had it not been for the overpowering stench of sulphur, which had us wildly retching while pedalling like lunatics.

It wasn’t a bad area for cycling though, after we’d outrun the smell, we came across a 4x4 trail through Myall Lakes Nation Park, which although was a wee bit bumpy (imagine a dry riverbed and a path made of boulders interspersed by silt) was obviously car free and a bit more like mountain biking than usual. Arriving quite early at camp it gave us time to put our now creaky old bikes through an MOT and re-round our hexagonal wheels.




Today we stopped on route to visit the Green Cathedral. An outdoor church in a forest clearing surrounded by dense tropical woodland with the still Wallis Lake behind the alter. The pews are simple cut logs from the forest and the alter made of river rocks. The cool dappled shade gives the impression of being ‘inside’ – it felt like being in a church!!

Anyway

We’ve stopped in Taree for the night, a horrible place full of people who aren’t allowed to live in Sydney in case they scare tourists away. We’re not staying any longer than necessary because they have a Scare Crow shop and a Doll Museum.

why aye?

The first day back on the bikes was wonderful, the breeze flowing through our hair and flies in our mouths, everything was simple and fresh. The second day was Hell! aching legs, a dreadful nights sleep and no TV! Day 3 and harmony was restored, we were back in tour mode and in the zone. So engrossed were we that we failed to notice the odometer ticking over the 2000km mark.

We arrived in Newcastle mid afternoon on a warm autumn day, finding no nearby camping we checked into a Motel, that night Thunder and lighting flashed across the city hailing down ocean storms and causing a city blackout. Smugly, we closed the curtains and played a few games of Worms2’.
We ended up staying a couple of nights in Newcastle; this one is great!
Guide books will tell you that its a small city, which has retained its small town feel. It has a burgeoning reputation has a happening place and a vibrant art community.
There are retro clothes shops and second hand bookshops at every turn only separated by coffee shops and music venues. You couldn’t go anyway without stumbling across a gig or some other event.

We now find ourselves in Nelson Bay, on Port Stephens. This is where Sydney folk spend their holidays. Unfortunately we’re struggling to find things to do; most adventures/tours have closed for the season, (it is after all, down to chilly a 25’C today).